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Сплав по реке Осьма

30.04.2014Сплав по реке Осьма

Каждый год весной, в апреле, по половодью, когда ещё не распустились листочки, когда выпадает череда ясных дней мы с друзьями отправляемся на какую-нибудь новую для нас речку. В этот раз выбор пал на реку Осьма, левый приток Днепра, что протекает по Смоленской области. Интересно, почему она называется Осьма? По счёту снизу это не восьмой приток Днепра.

Паводок в этом году прошёл рано, снег уже давно растаял, весна выдалась ранняя. Однако Осьма проходима и летом, поэтому мы и отправились на неё. Добраться до реки несложно – от городя Вязьма всего около 30 км по старосмоленской дороге в сторону деревни Семлёво.

Вечерняя электричка 19:20 Москва Бородино уносила нас на запад. Короткое ожидание пересадки на Вяземскую электричку, и мы снова в пути.

И тут, как говорится, поедешь на север, поедешь на юг… Брата-туриста встретишь везде.

Машинист электропоезда Альберт, увидев наши рюкзаки, позвал меня в кабину пообщаться о маршрутах. 

Так я впервые посидела за «рулём» электропоезда и погудела в гудок, нажимая на мощную ножную педаль. Альберт с ребятами из Смоленского турклуба раньше сплавлялся по Осьме на байдарках. Они стартовали от моста на дороге, что пересекает Осьму в 4-х километрах западнее Семлёво.

Мы решили стартовать выше. В 12 ночи, когда мы приехали в Вязьму, общественного транспорта, естественно, уже не было. Таксист высадил нас за три километра не доезжая села Семлёво. Здесь с основной дороги вправо уходила хорошо накатанная песчаная дорожка на карьер. До реки от этого места было не более пятисот метров, только дорога не подходила к воде. Лишь перевалив откос у карьера, мы оказались на берегу.

Осьма здесь течёт в крутых берегах, но подход к воде есть. Ширина речки не более 5-6 метров. А какая прозрачная вода! Чистейшая. И дно песчаное, не топкое. Очень уютная речка.

Мой напарник - Александр Чуркин - гипермарафонец.  За сезон пробегает несколько сотенных марафонов на лыжах. На велосипеде проезжает порядка 600 километров (Москва-Питер) чуть больше, чем за сутки. Гигант мысли. Конструктор.

На первых километрах пути нам встретилось несколько небольших завалов, которые легко проходились под ветками или стволами. Пару раз делали распилы, чтобы проплыть. Однако на берег для обноса нигде вылезать не приходилось. Лишь раз протащили каяки через сплошной завал из брёвен, где река была мелкая, не выше колена. Местами река сужалась до трёх метров и была глубокой.

Река закручивает такие петли, что временами кажется, что маршрут закольцевался. 

За пол дня мы не доплыли и первого притока справа. Заночевали у островка елей на крутом левом берегу на лесном участке после деревни Семёновское. Надо сказать, что лес по берегам здесь в основном лиственный. Берёзовое мелколесье, ольшаники, заросли черёмухи. Поэтому ели заманили нас на стоянку раньше, чем мы планировали встать – солнце было ещё высоко. Но мы не пожалели – ночью был заморозок, а под елями всегда теплее, чем на открытых местах.

После правого притока Хицы река стала чуть побольше, расширялась метров до 12-ти. Деревеньки по берегам незаметны, по-видимому, в основном в них заезжают на лето. Места глухие. Лиса выбежала на берег речки так спокойно, что даже не оглянулась на меня, плывущую в каяке. Некоторое время я наблюдала за ней, пока она рыскала вдоль реки и не насторожилась на звук весла напарника. Несколько мгновений разглядывала меня и только потом удалилась. Не раз встречали мы бобров, видели косулю, куницу. 

После моста, что в 4-х километрах западнее села Семлёво, завалы на реке кончаются. Отсюда видимо и стартуют основные группы сплавщиков и рыбаков.

Длина реки 108 километров. Понятно, что начинали мы не с самого верха, однако во второй день мы прогребли значительный участок маршрута - от стоянки чуть выше Хицы  и почти до моста у деревни Самцово - порядка 40 километров. Река всё такая же ненаселённая, красивая, в лесных берегах. Течение заметное, встречались перекаты.

Лишь за высоким мысом, что подходит к реке южнее деревни Шилово, где сохранились окопы,  начинается участок реки в низких травяных заболоченных берегах. Река сильно петляет. Долго гребли до первого приличного места для стоянки -  светлого берёзового леса на высоком левом берегу.

По этому мосту, что у деревни Самцово, можно оценить уровень воды в Осьме, что был здесь 24 апреля 2014 года.

В реке вовсю резвятся лягушки - идёт активное икрометание. На очередном из нескончаемых поворотов петляющей Осьмы меня привлёк необычный звук: то ли лягушка монотонно квакала-хрипела под берегом, то ли скрипела ветка, колышимая водой. Этот ритмичный звук был странным. Не успела я додумать, что бы это могло быть, как на берегу  заметила лося. Пока доставала фотоаппарат, лось успел удалиться. А звук пропал. Значит - не ветка.

 

Течение уже проносило меня мимо этого берега с подмытыми деревьями, я прогребла обратно против течения, всматриваясь в основание коряг и на уровне воды под наклонным стволом увидела коричневую морду. Бобр? И не ныряет от меня? Да это же лосёнок! В упор не видно!

Как он умудрился попасть в эту природную западню - непонятно! Наверное сполз с откоса, попал под корни подмытого водой дерева, вставал, но упирался спиной в ствол и проваливался всё глубже в воду. Хорошо, что морда лежал на ветке над водой. Боковые корни не давали лосёнку вылезти вбок, а задний ход на крутой, обваливающийся берег он дать не мог. Нам пришлось сделать пару распилов, прежде чем удалось достать лосёнка из этой западни.

Ему не больше недели от роду. Бедный, он дрожал от страха и холода. Но был тёплый. И закоченевшие ноги его еле разгибались, наверное, он находился в воде с ночи. Но кости были целы. 

С распрямлёнными ногами он был мне по пояс. Мы вынесли его на берег подальше от обрыва и оставили в кустах. 

Лосёнок лёг на землю и ему осталось только дождаться матери, которая конечно же рядом и не бросит его. Мы уплыли.

На правом берегу Осьмы на участке за притоком Зерешни проходила мощная линия обороны наших войск. На нашу третью  стоянку мы встали на одном из последних высоких берегов перед началом низменного безлесного куска маршрута низовьев Осьмы. Дальше до Днепра вставать некуда! И решили найти братскую могилу, что обозначена на карте.

Сосновый лес здесь потрясающий. Напоминает окрестности Алоля в Псковской области. Вот где надо рисовать карту для ориентирования!

Здесь хорошо сохранились окопы, много стрелковых ячеек, наблюдательных пунктов на высотках, блиндажей. 

И цветёт сон-трава, охраняя память о  погибших  солдатах.

Следов войны сохранилось много. Появились новые вырубки, дороги. Но братскую могилу мы не нашли. 

 Ночами были заморозки, во вторую ночь вода , оставленная в кружке, промёрзла до дна - похоже, температур опускалась как минимум до 5 мороза. В этом походе я впервые испытывала спальник компании СПЛАВ. "Doubl"60. Это лёгкий - 800 граммов,  просторный спальный мешок с мягким, приятным на ощупь утеплителем. Он вообще-то двухместный. Но я люблю комфорт и  взяла его вместо палатки в комплекте с пуховым спальником, весящим тоже 800 граммов. Два спальника позволяют регулировать температуру при её резких колебаниях. Так, в первую тёплую ночь в двух спальниках мне стало жарко и я вылезла из одного. 

А в одном пуховом  при заморозках я точно бы замёрзла. Верхний сплавовский спальник предохранял пуховый от отсыревания, создавал дополнительную прослойку воздуха между спальниками. Вообщем, мне было очень комфортно, и я не замёрзла. Летом  буду брать один сплавовский. 

Заключительный участок реки был немного монотонный своими однообразными петляниями вдоль безлесной поймы. Но течение везде продолжала хорошо чувствоваться, а разнообразие в сплав внесли палы по берегам. 

Огонь шёл стеной с характерным треском, дым стоял столбами, видимыми издалека. Временами в воздух поднимались настоящие смерчи - закручивающиеся в спираль вихри пепла - первый раз наблюдала подобное явление.

От стоянки на высоком берегу до впадения в Днепр и далее по нему около 8 километров до Дорогобужа мы прошли за 5 с половиной часов с небольшими остановками. Последний автобус на Сафоново уходил в 18:35,  до него мы как раз успели разобраться у моста и пообедать.

Возможно, мы зря спешили. Электричек в сторону Москвы от Сафоново уже не было. (Впрочем, как и в сторону Смоленска). Можно было уезжать из Дорогобужа на автобусе  прямо в Москву. Этот автобус уходит около 12 ночи. А так  мы уехали на Ельнинском автобусе из Сафоново в те же 12 ночи. Автобус по пустой трассе быстро мчал нас в Москву. Утром будет дан старт велокросса в Лыткарино. Ориентирование лонг. Успеем! Мультигонка продолжается....



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